Nightlife
Bryoglu has been the site of drinking, dancing, theatre, debauchery and other non-Muslim pastimes in Istanbul for centuries. Although it developed a reputation for seediness in the 1980s, Istanbul’s huge youth population and the spirit of liberalism has ensured the district’s recovery, with the clip joints and strip clubs rolling back off Istiklal Caddesi to make room for more nightclubs, wine bars and jazz venues. Technically, the drinking age is 18 years but identity cards are rarely checked and there is a noticeable, even irritating, quantity of teenagers who think nothing of shelling out cover charges well over the European norm. The Guide Istanbul (website: http://www.theguideistanbul.com/) provides up-to-date information on the latest bars and clubs.
Prices of nightspots vary hugely. The cheapest taverns or meyhanes, such as those in the Fish Market, sell a big bottle of Efes Pils for about US$1. In nightclubs or live music bars, however, you can pay three to five times that amount, and cover charges for live music are often not displayed but turn up suddenly on your bill. Meyhanes tend to close at 2400, bars at 0100/0200, while clubs can stay open as late as 0600 on weekends. Visitors would be advised to avoid the seedier venues in the back alleys off Istiklal Caddesi, and to be cautious when a new acquaintance suggests a nightspot. Many strip shows or belly dancing clubs operate a system whereby unsuspecting visitors will be expected to pick up a huge tab for women who somehow end up at their table all night.
Bars: For a relaxed drink, small bistros such as Kaktus and Cadde-i Kebir in Imam Adnan Sokak or Cafe Urban, a converted Art Deco Jewish patisserie tucked in an alleyway off Istiklal Caddesi/Turnacibasi Sokak, at Kartal Sokak 6, are mid-priced European-style bistros serving espresso, light meals and drinks. Pia at Bekar Sokak and Istiklal Caddesi is another good bet. Above Kaktus, Ora is a studenty, Anatolian-style bar with cheap meals, cheap beer and Turkish traditional instruments hanging on the wall for anyone who feels like striking up a tune. Hayal Kahvesi, at Buyukparmakkapi Sokak 19, is a cafe-bar during the day but live music starts at 2300, as does the cover charge. Bilsak 5, Soganci Sokak 7, off Sirasilveler Caddesi, is a relaxed, mixed gay/straight bar frequented by artsy types.
Casinos: Gambling is banned in Turkey due to its association with organized crime.
Clubs: Istanbul’s clubs are for the young and rich and are often shockingly expensive. The city looks to outsparkle Ibiza in the plethora of high-class clubs that continue to open on the Bosphorus ‘strip’ – Muallim Naci Caddesi, between Kurucesme and Ortakoy. Club 29 in Ulus Park is the most glamorous, with an open-air dance floor holding 1000 (summers only); similarly Chinawhite, on Muallim Naci Caddesi 120 in Ortakoy, is Istanbul’s most exclusive UK-based club, with a strict door policy. Nu Pera and Nu Teras are both based at Mesrutiyet 147 – the former is open in the summer, with great views over the Bosphorus, the latter in winter. Based in a historic building, the club plays hiphop and underground in New York-style ambience. The famous Zihni Bar nearby at number 119 commands a fabulous Bosphorus view and is frequented by stockbrokers. Milk, behind St Antoine’s Church at Akarsu Sokak 5, is primarily a gay/straight techno bar and Switch, at Muammer Karaca Cikmazi 3, is its main ‘underground’ competitor.
Live music: Babylon, Seybender Sokak in Asmalimescit, puts on adventurous experimental and jazz concerts. For live jazz, Gramofon at Tunel Square is the best and, for Latin music, Q’bana’s, at Muallim Naci Caddesi 138 in Ortakoy, is an upmarket alternative. Roxy, at Arslan Yatagi, off Sirasilveler Caddesi, features live Turkish and international dance bands. The Kerem Gorsev Jazz Bar at the Milli Reassurans Mall in Macka is run by a well known Turkish jazz musician. HIP Productions (website: http://www.hipproductions.com.tr/) is involved in a number of concerts and clubs as well as an international techno festival in September. Pozitif Promotions (tel: (212) 249 7075 or 252 5167; e-mail pozitif@turk.net; website: http://www.babylon-ist.com/ or http://www.pozitif-ist.com/), puts on the Efes Pilsen International Blues Festival in October, the Fuji World music weekends and runs the Babylon Club. Park Orman (tel/fax: (212) 328 2020), Buyukdere Caddesi Maslak, is a vast park complex with various restaurants, clubs, sports facilities and music venues (inside and open air) in a forest setting. The venue hosts the J&B Techno Festival in September each year as well as an increasing amount of music events throughout the year. For Turkish traditional music, check out bars and meyhanes advertising fasil, or classical romantic singing.
